Friday, June 20, 2014

Bedbugs And Rotten Apartments In Tucson





The last month or two have been an adventure. No, let me revise that: the last eight months, since the first day we moved into our apartment after coming off the road, have been a lesson in outrage and desperation. We know, now, what it means to feel hopeless, only to deliver ourselves out of the mouth of despair into semi-liberation. Allow me to explain.

We hated our old apartment on Park Avenue. We had thought, when we moved in, that we had it made, in a sense. Only $350 a month, a studio we had no problems adjusting to so far as space was concerned, about a block away from a Fry's grocery. With the rent so cheap, we'd save money in no time, take care of a lot of business we'd been meaning to finish for a while (I have dental issues that still need addressing, a bachelors degree that I dropped over ten years ago with only five credits left to go, and we're planning a trip to Europe that will be similar in many ways to a lengthy trip we took through the eastern US) and try to start a new direction in our lives.

Then the problems began. A lot of them, all at once. We don't own cell phones (we're cheap) so we typically use the land line in every apartment we live in. This apartment didn't have one installed, just a blank plate where one could go. Fine, call the property manager and tell him we'd like one installed. Shouldn't be a problem, should it? Property managers are supposed to manage things for tenants—it's in the job title. “I don't handle that,” he tells us. “You'll have to work that out with the phone company.”

Oh, so it was the phone company's building? No, but it was clear he had no interest in helping us. We called the phone company and they told us that from their end, the line looked active. Possibly there was a problem with the connection in the apartment itself. We called the property manager again.

“You know, I don't see why I should have to deal with this. Why don't you just use cell phones like everybody else?”

Wow. That's what I call commitment. What's the minimal amount of effort a person has to put out and still be called a manager? All this guy had to do was be related to the landlord, who was apparently too old to do much managing himself anymore. Job security as reliable as the tides.

I don't recall the exact chain of events after that. Eventually the on-site maintenance guy came into the apartment, fiddled with the phone wires, and left. When that didn't work either, the phone company said they'd send a guy out. A couple of days later he showed up, looked at our connection, and said it looked fine, but he couldn't get a signal. He went outside and sure enough, found that there was no connection to the building itself. He set that right and we had our phone, finally, after two weeks of negotiating.

Then the seat and seat post on my bike got stolen. I've covered this before in an older post, so I won't go into very much detail here. What I'll say is that is happened within a few days of moving in. I questioned the intelligence of leaving the bike locked to the metal railing outside the door, and especially questioned the wisdom of leaving the seat on the bike while unattended. What I decided was, I'm too lazy to remove the seat when I'm not using the bike and put it back on when I am, so I'll leave it where it is and hope the fact that it's within spitting distance of our front door, inside a fenced off property, in sight of our neighbors, will keep people from trying to run off with it.

Nope. Not even a week went by and it was gone. The shitty thing is, my bike is not a recreational toy. It's my primary transportation. We don't own a car (remember, cheap) and the transit system in Tucson totally sucks, so that bike is the main way I get to and from work, how I run errands, and my preferred type of exercise. You fuck with the bike, you fuck with my life. I rode without a seat for over a week before a local bike shop could order one the right size.

We mentioned it to the maintenance guy and his wife. His wife said, without hesitation, “It was probably one of the tenants.”

Good to know. Just what kind of people were we living around? I suppose the property manager's wife, the person who went over the lease with us and was present when we signed, gave us some kind of advance warning, no matter how unintentional. “We've evicted a number of people recently. There were people selling drugs and whatnot, so we're trying to discourage that. That's why it says no drugs on the lease agreement.”

From what we could gather, this place was a favorite living space of ne'er-do-wells of every sort. Our neighbors next door were chronic alcoholics who stayed up late every night talking loudly and cranking up their stereo until the early hours of the morning. That's when they weren't screaming at their TV while a game was on. I overheard another neighbor talking about a woman who had OD'd in one of the downstairs apartments. He also mentioned the time two naked homeless men had spent a day swimming in the pool.

As annoying as those problems were, they were nothing compared to the bedbugs. It goes without saying that the property manager's wife didn't mention those when we moved in.

Less than a week after moving in, my wife woke up with a series of bites down one side of her body. What the hell? Did we have spiders? For most of the following day, that's all we could think of that would have caused such large, red welts. Then my wife recalled a hostel where she had stayed in San Francisco over a decade ago. That hostel had had a bedbug infestation that took them months to get rid of, and the bites she suffered there looked a lot like the ones she had now.

She asked someone at the Fry's pharmacy about it. They said that generally, bedbug bites are in clusters, not spaced apart. My wife's bites were not in clusters. Maybe it was a spider after all.

A couple of nights later, I started getting bit on the feet and ankles, and those bites were without a doubt in clusters. They also itched like hell. I looked and felt like I had chicken pox from the ankles down. Every night brought new bites for both of us. This was the beginning of an ordeal that didn't end for seven months.



Neither of us had ever seen a bedbug before. We assumed they must be incredibly small, like fleas. That would explain why we weren't seeing them. At the time we had no idea that bedbugs hide in small crevices, outlets, under furniture, anywhere they can go and escape detection during the day. They also leave a telltale sign on your sheets, small streaks of blood from full bedbugs getting squished by accident as you move about in your sleep. As time went on and we realized that not only could we see them plainly but there were actually far more than we could physically deal with on our own, our sheets and pillowcases became covered in bloody skid marks, blotches, specks and dribbles, like a rusty-brown Jackson Pollack spattered on the canvas in slow motion. Most of these came from desperately squishing the little devils as we discovered them hunting for our warm human blood in the middle of the night. Even after they had already fed, there was something deeply satisfying about popping one between your fingers like an undercooked pea. Anyone who has lived through a bedbug infestation can probably sympathize—after weeks and months of being covered in itchy bites every bit as bad as those of mosquitoes, bad enough to wake you up from a deep sleep, going through life on little more than three hours of decent sleep a night, you'll be happy with even the smallest grain of revenge.

We contacted the property managers multiple times over the course of the seven months we lived in the building. Each time it took them days to get back to us, and each time the response was something along the lines of “Gee, bedbugs? Spray some poison, I guess. What do you expect us to do about it?”

It was clear they couldn't care less. It was also becoming clear that they had known about the infestation for some time, but had neglected to tell us about it when we signed a year lease. I gathered intelligence slowly, overhearing conversations between our neighbors and Richard, the on-site maintenance guy. He wanted Richard to talk to the property managers about the bedbugs, the cockroaches (I forgot to mention the hordes of roaches that paraded through our apartment at all hours of the day and night), and the leaky roof, which had apparently led to damp living spaces during the last rain storm. 



The only consolation I took away after hearing them talk was that we weren't the only ones suffering from the problem. Big deal, it was still awful, and we couldn't see any way out. A year lease meant we were stuck there for months, enduring an issue that was steadily getting worse. If we broke the lease, we knew the possible consequences: the landlord could hold us liable for the remaining rent owed. That would mean that, in addition to paying rent on whatever new place we moved to, we'd have to pay close to two grand to our previous landlord. We're not rich, and such a circumstance could very well have bled us dry financially. We decided, against our better judgment, to wait the situation out and see if there was any improvement.

I took heart when we found a note on our door one afternoon stating that the managers were finally hiring an exterminator. About fucking time, I thought. Now, at least, they were taking some kind of positive action. Maybe we didn't have to break the lease after all. Maybe things would improve.

When the exterminator did eventually show up, it was only to deal with the roaches. We put a little roach poison here and there in the apartment and left.

Richard was there. “Isn't he going to do anything about the bedbugs?” I asked.

“They're going to try to take care of the different bugs one at a time. First the roaches, and then when those are gone, they're going to work on the bedbugs.” He couldn't have helped but notice my frustrated expression. “Don't worry, though,” he said, weakly trying to placate me, “I'll give you some of the bug poison I use. I spray it around my place all the time, and I don't have any bedbugs. We'll take care of this problem, don't worry.”

At no point did he consider the absurdity of expecting other people to be happy living in a place drenched in poison. Good for him if he was fine with it. We weren't. About this time I began to feel incredibly depressed. The situation grew more and more hopeless, both my wife and I were working long days on virtually no sleep, and we had almost no way to relieve ourselves from the stress.

Things reached a point of no return in the last couple of weeks before we moved. The neighbor next to us, the one who complained to Richard about his own bedbug problem? He moved to another apartment in the building. Evidently he was such a slob that his old apartment was pretty much trashed, necessitating a remodel. Richard and some other guy, maybe his son-in-law, busied themselves tearing out sheetrock and linoleum. Hidden everywhere were thousands and thousands of bedbugs that had been breeding for years, unimpeded. Had he really done nothing in all this time to deal with them? Had he simply endured bites and bloodstains without taking any steps to alleviate his suffering? There could be no other explanation. He let their numbers grow, and now that he had left and their hiding places were being disturbed, they needed to find somewhere else to feed.

Guess where they went? We became inundated with swarm upon swarm of bedbugs, dozens of them a night, biting us with such frequency that sleep became next to impossible. We could no longer look at our bed as a place to lay down and relax—it was the place you were guaranteed to be bitten repeatedly as soon as you climbed in.

One night I went around the apartment with a flashlight, armed with a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol, which I knew from experience could kill bedbugs more or less on contact. They were everywhere, on the drapes and on the walls, crawling around on the floor looking for a source of blood, outside the window searching for openings in the screen, in the bathroom. I don't know how many I killed, but it didn't come close to being all of them. I spent the night doing this instead of sleeping, and in the morning had to work a full shift at my job.

It got bad enough that I rode my bike to the nearest Target after work and bought a two-person tent. I had left a note on the kitchen table for my wife stating my intentions. She called me at work as I was closing up the shop.

“Don't buy a tent. That's crazy.”

“Honey, I'm literally on the verge of a nervous breakdown. If I don't get some sleep I'm going to lose my mind. I don't know what else to do.”

“Do you really think it's going to work?”

Good question. I got the idea from an internet search that turned up “bedbug tents” as an item sold to keep them off you while you sleep. The tent retailed for over a hundred dollars at Ace Hardware. Hell with that, I thought, crestfallen. Then I asked myself, Why wouldn't a regular tent work just as well? As long as there are no large openings, bugs shouldn't be able to get in, and a basic two-person tent goes for about thirty bucks at a big box store.

That's how we spent the last week before we moved, sleeping in a tent set up inside our apartment. I wish I had a picture of this, but the relevant photograph was lost when our laptop died (what can I say, I'm lazy about backing up files). And it worked beautifully. We weren't bitten once, and for the first time in months we slept through the night undisturbed.

The bedbugs, denied a source of food, took to biting us during the day whenever they could.

Around this time, I visited the legal aid office downtown. I should have done that months earlier. The lawyer I spoke with confirmed my suspicions, namely that we were justified for the most part in breaking our lease over bedbugs, but there was still a danger of our landlord chasing us down for the remaining rent. It would go to collections if they chose to pursue it, and we were on our own at that point, having to go to court in order to prove our case. As much as we hated the idea, we were prepared to take it that far if we had to. She also told me that we needed a paper trail indicating that we had complained about the bedbugs over a period of time with nothing being done about it. The emails we'd sent were, to some degree, somewhat sufficient, but we'd need to also send a hard copy letter to our landlords declaring our intentions and the reasons why before moving.

Strictly speaking, that's what we did. It's just that we sent the letter the same day we moved.

Our biggest fear was that if we told the property managers outright that it was our intention to break our lease, they might decide to evict us in retaliation, meaning we'd have an eviction on our record and would have to find a new place to live in a very short period of time. Better for us to find a new place first, which we did, and move out as quickly as we could without anyone noticing.

We picked a day we'd both have off, packed our stuff in such a hurry that we had no idea what had been packed where (a big inconvenience when it came time to unpack), and I went to the closest U-Haul to rent a pickup. We spent the entire day packing and loading the truck, going back and forth between the old apartment and the new one, moving our stuff like thieves, constantly checking to make sure no one noticed what we were doing. My greatest fear was that Richard would see us and figure out what was going on, then call the property managers, who would then show up to harass and bully us. A part of me felt they were exactly the kind of people to pull that kind of shit if they felt someone was trying to screw them out of money. It was their love of money over common decency and human compassion that had led them to be the proud managers of the shithole we were trying to escape from in the first place. Along with calling all the different utility companies to get our services transferred, I had spent the previous three or four days preparing myself for a wild and dramatic confrontation that would stack even more stress on top of what we were already about to go through.

As it turns out, no one noticed or cared what we were doing. Save for one person, who asked if we were moving out as we carried the very last box down to the truck, nobody said anything to us. We'd cleaned the place from top to bottom, wiped and mopped it down to the point where it was likely cleaner than the day we moved in, and left nothing but an empty space that our lives used to occupy. I walked up to Richard's wife outside their apartment (Richard not being home at the time) and handed her the keys. She looked pretty bowled over when I told her we'd just moved out. “Does Richard know?” she asked, almost as if to say, “Are you sure you should be doing this?” At the time, we didn't care about proper procedure. We didn't care what anyone living in that building thought. Looking back, I really hope we didn't get Richard in trouble. It's not like any of it was his fault.

There was a new problem of course, one that we knew we'd have to conquer if we were going to get our life back in shape. It was inevitable that bedbugs would stow away in our stuff—there were far too many of them at the time of the move for a few of them (more like a few dozen) not to hitch a ride in our hastily-packed boxes. We panicked at the thought of being at fault for infesting an apartment. I thought of all the things that could happen to us: eviction, blacklisting, bankruptcy, homelessness. Our lives could be ruined. I saw us having to call our folks for money so we could fly back to Washington state in disgrace, moving in with our parents and trying to start our lives over from nothing (at least we had the option of reaching out to people, should the worst occur).

The first night didn't help. I was bitten at least half a dozen times by bedbugs that hadn't fed in over a week. I can't adequately describe the despair I felt the first week or so after moving in. I was sure we were doomed. My wife tried her best to calm me, let me know we could only do what we could. We did laundry constantly, put sheets and pillows in the dryer on an almost daily basis. We borrowed a steamer from her job at a thrift store/boutique, and steamed all of our furniture, all the clothes we'd packed away that couldn't go in the laundry, around the perimeters of all the rooms. I bought poison and sprayed it everywhere I thought bugs would hide. We bought a new vacuum cleaner (did I mention this move cost us over a thousand dollars in deposits, truck rental, new furniture, and other odds and ends? That was our whole tax return, something we hadn't planned to blow on a desperate escape—and a thousand dollars is a shit-ton of money for us) and used it throughout the entire apartment in the hope of vacuuming up any eggs they might have laid.

We kept all that up for three weeks, and at the end, after occasional bites that led to a renewed sense of dread every time, we beat them. I can say, without reservations, that there are no bedbugs in our apartment. We had to throw out furniture, including a hope chest of my wife's that was a gift from her father when she was sixteen, and we lived on the edge of pure hysteria for weeks, but we did it and it is done for good. We won that battle, and the last remnants of that awful place are gone. It is behind us.

Just in case you think I'm exaggerating how bad the old building was, here's another anecdote. One morning we awoke to someone banging on our window. The fuck is going on? We step outside to see black smoke raging from a downstairs apartment. Richard hurriedly unlocked the large back gate in the fence bordering the rear of the property to let in the fire trucks that were even then pulling up the alley. Within minutes a fire fighter told us to evacuate the building. We stood around in the parking lot as fire crews brought in hoses and dealt with the blaze.

Good thing the building's mostly made out of brick, I thought. That could have been bad.

A week or so later I come to find out (through a notice left on our door by the fire department) that the cause of the fire was a badly wired water heater. So I had to wonder: just how well-wired is our heater? Is it going to burst into flames on us one day while we're not at home?

A little later, my wife spoke with our neighbor two doors down. Generally we'd been avoiding this guy as he was one of the ones who partied loudly late into the night, and seemed a little clueless about neighborly behavior. But she happened to get into a conversation with him, the subject got around to budbugs, water heaters and the all around shittiness of the building, and he mentioned that his own water heater had exploded some time before while he was at work, damaging several square feet of carpet. He complained about it to the managers and they told him they'd just cut out the damaged section of carpet and leave it at that, no replacement necessary. He told them no way, you're replacing the carpet, and by the way there are a few other things wrong that I might bring up with the right people, and before long they put in a whole new carpet.

I wasn't surprised they had to be pushed to take care of the problem, and that was the least of my worries. What bothered me was the idea that our own water heater might do the same thing while we were out, pretty much destroying everything we had. That poor kid lost I don't know how much, I just hope he had rich parents (probably not, if that apartment was the only place he could afford). If it had happened to us, we would have been totally fucked.

Whatever, it's over. The managers probably even now commit acts of evil that set the karmic ledger more and more heavily against them. If I believed in reincarnation, I'd let myself think that they might come back as bedbugs themselves, or roaches, and mine would be the foot that steps on them. Unfortunately, that isn't the way life works. Bad people commit rotten acts against others all the time and get away with it—it has always been thus and it always will be, I'm afraid.

What gets to me is that there are still people living in that building who, for whatever reason, can't get away. Most of the other tenants were poor, elderly, screwed up on drugs or booze, crazy, living on SSI. One guy downstairs had no legs, presumably no job, and say around sometimes outside his apartment looking forlorn and desperate. There was someone else (or maybe it was him) who screamed his head off all night, hollering words that made no sense, were just meaningless syllables of rage spit into the night to vent a fury brought on by the fact that his life was hell and he was trapped in it for good. It was depressing to hear, and depressing to see the way neighbors never smiled, never said hello, didn't seem to want anything to do with anyone else. There was a constant haze of anger hovering over the place. Most tellingly, there were no families, no one with children, which was probably for the best—I can't imagine what it would be like for a child to have to live in such an environment.

So I think about those people sometimes, who couldn't get away. I didn't speak with any of them, really, because they were often surly and unresponsive (so was I, after a while), but I get why they were pissed. Their lives have little hope of getting better, and the fact they have to settle for living in a bug-infested nightmare is just one more example for them of the way things are probably going to go for a long time to come. There is something very educational about living among the impoverished, in that it doesn't allow you the luxury of looking away, or pretending that the suffering of people whose poverty is destined to follow them all the way to the grave doesn't exist. In a city like Tuscon, in the poorest county in the state of Arizona, the desperate and the wretched are a common site. I'll always try to remember a little bit of what we went through whenever I see them. 





Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Even More Freaky Tucson Landmarks




And now for more funny/unusual/admirable things a person can find just sitting around in the city of Tucson.



This giant Easter Island head used to live at Magic Carpet Golf on Speedway Boulevard until that place closed several years ago. Now it stands in front of The Hut, a bar on 4th Avenue. It's nice that somebody found a use for it beyond smashing it into gravel-sized chunks and tossing it in a landfill. Also, for people with sentimental memories of that particular miniature golf course, this huge head (which everyone insists on calling a “tiki head” in spite of the fact that it doesn't bear any resemblance to actual tiki designs) will serve as a permanent reminder—provided The Hut doesn't close—of a bygone time in Tucson, now serving as a landmark for a place where U of A students can get tipsy on beer and cocktails while trying to get laid. So really, not all that different from miniature golf.




All hail this weird thing! I have no idea what this is or who put it there. It's quite a thing, though. You can find this on 1st Avenue just a block or so south of the Pima Library. Metal sculpture isn't uncommon in Tucson—there's a place called the Sculpture Resource Center near downtown where projects like this sometimes come into being. Maybe that's where it's from. I don't know. I like it because it's a jungle gym with metal flowers on it—how often do you see that? Not every day, I can tell you that much.



Paul Bunyan. So what, right? Lots of towns have a big Paul Bunyan standing outside of a business, especially if it sells timber or pre-cut log cabins or something. I have to admit I have a soft spot for this kind of thing. Don't ask me why, but I like cheesy Americana. It's not like I'm a big flag-waving, truck driving, red-blooded patriot in the Toby Keith vein, but if I go into a mom-and-pop diner with antique farm implements on the walls alongside varnished circular sections of logs painted with airbrushed bald eagles and American flags, I'm positively tickled. Again, I can't even begin to tell you why that is. And big Paul Bunyan statues fit right in there. I think I like the idea that they embody a piece of American folklore, a part of our storytelling history that we've kept alive. I feel the same way about chainsaw art of Bigfoot.



After somebody stole my bike seat, I took off for BICAS to buy a new (used) one. For some reason, I couldn't find it, even though I've been there several times. While riding around the neighborhood seatless, I came across this metal sculpture. Judging from the weathering, I assume it's bronze. The dual fish were the first thing to catch my attention. Then I changed angles and saw this:



There's a horned toad hiding between the fish. I really like this piece, but I find it a little confusing. I get that the horned toad represents the desert, but what do the fish symbolize? The only place you'll find fish in southern Arizona is at a sushi restaurant. Do they refer to the now-deceased Santa Cruz and Rillito rivers, that maybe once had fish in them before they turned into dry riverbeds? I suppose it's possible. No matter what the sculpture is trying to communicate, I like the design. Animal sculptures are the best.



So what's the best animal sculpture in Tucson, after the Snake Bridge? Maybe it's this Tyrannosaurus Rex next to a McDonald's on the corner of East Grant and Tanque Verde. Up until recently, I thought this was another remnant of the same miniature golf course our booze-purveying friend from Easter Island came from. Not at all; the owner of the McDonald's has a son who was a huge fan of Jurassic Park, like any healthy child. So he commissioned a T. Rex from a company that had a connection to the construction of the animatronic dinosaurs from the movies, for $55,000. Some kids have very charmed lives. I like this thing for two reasons: first, as I think everyone can agree, dinosaurs are cool. And second, it's nice to see a McDonald's do something to set itself apart, considering McDonald's restaurants come in about two designs, the exact same ones you see all across the United States. A dinosaur statue such as this one adds a personal touch you rarely see at chain restaurants, or chain businesses in general. So kudos to you, wealthy McDonald's owner who buys his kid super-expensive presents. You've given us something we can all enjoy, even if we go out of our way to avoid McDonald's greasy, weird-tasting food.



Tuesday, September 10, 2013

An Empty Building Makes Me Want To Write About Gabrielle Giffords' Shooting




I was on a bike ride and hastily snapped this picture of the building that once served as Gabrielle Gifford's Tucson offices. That was, I assume, up until about a year or two ago. Now that she's left the House of Representatives, the building has a For Lease sign out by the sidewalk.

I first heard about the shooting while we were in Hawaii. We were at the Starbucks in the town of Waimea because we needed to do laundry and the laundromat there was the one closest to us (only a 30-minute bus ride away from our little shack out in the sticks). I happened to look at the rack of newspapers and saw the headline on the front page. I cracked open the laptop and sure enough, there were a slew of stories about how the Arizona representative and a number of other people had been shot by a gunman armed with a 9mm. pistol and an extended clip, some of them fatally.

The story shocked me for two reasons. Most obviously, because there had been a mass shooting in the city we had left only months before; and also because there was this weird feeling that some of the city's cross-eyed lunacy had reached halfway across the Pacific Ocean to touch us in a coffee shop in the middle of a small, sparsely populated Hawaiian town.

There was a lot of talk in the aftermath about how the hyper-conservative political atmosphere of the time led to the tragedy. I have to admit that's exactly how I felt when I first heard about it. Obama hadn't been in office a week and the Tea Party was calling him Hitler. Fringe right-wingers were getting semi-serious consideration in the media, when ten years earlier they had to be content with handing out self-published pamphlets at gun and knife shows. At a time when people were muttering things about secession, the overthrow of a “tyrannical” government, and an allegedly socialist Democratic party, it didn't surprise me that a Democrat had been shot by a wacko. The way that left-leaning news outlets and opinion-makers charactarized the event as a real life manifestation of the violent eliminationist fantasies of the extreme right proved to be premature in light of the gunman's obvious schizophrenia. What the shooting seemed to prove was less that the radical right wing poses a real danger to life and limb (as far as I'm concerned, they're just noisy and obnoxious) and more that background checks on firearm purchases are a great idea, along with better medical care for the mentally ill. Guns and crazy people go together like jackhammers and dynamite.

I was in no way surprised, though, that such a thing had happened in Arizona. Mass shootings happen all over the place these days, but it took Arizona for a politician to get shot. This place is so libertarian people deliver their own mail. It's no secret that politics here are totally batshit. What did The Daily Show call it, “The Meth Lab of Democracy”? Yeah, that's what the state is known for, that's its claim to fame. Stuff like SB1070 (the Show Your Papers law for those of you who weren't paying attention then), Sheriff Joe Arpaio tormenting prisoners for his own amusement and racially profiling random brown people, the Tucson Unified School District banning Mexican-American studies from the classrooms, as well as making it illegal to mention any texts that present a pro-Chicano point of view, all of that goes a long way toward making Arizonans look like a bunch of assholes. Plenty are, and a disproportionate number get elected to the legislature, but most are sincerely decent human beings. But does anyone hear about the good stuff? No, it's all racism and attempted political assassinations. If it wasn't for the sunshine and medicinal pot, no one would want to move here.

Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Public Art on Tucson's 4th Avenue


This is part one of what I intend to be an ongoing series on this blog showcasing interesting sculptural work, graffiti, miscellaneous objects of interest, and other trippy stuff around Tucson.

All up and down 4th Avenue, a commercial district/tourist trap emphasizing small boutiques, bars and restaurants, and resembling in some ways a miniturized version of the Haight in San Francisco, you find lots of sanctioned, professional graffiti art—or is it considered graffiti when it's not illegal? I don't know. Some of it might not even be done with spray paint, but it all adds the kind of bohemian vibe businesses on the avenue like to present.

Some of these have been around for years, others went up in the last year or so.

I'll start with this great collection of images just off of 6th Street and 4th. This is some of the coolest mural work in Tucson right now. I don't know the name of the artist or artists, though some of the work is signed with the crew names.





Here's a rattlesnake and a Day of the Dead-style skull on the outside of a place called Creative Ventures.

 


These Spy Vs. Spy guys guard one side of the Magpies Pizza.

 

Did you love the 60's and 70's?  Do you wish you were born earlier than 1991 so you could have seen classic rock before it was classic?  Hippie Gypsy knows how you feel.  The exterior of the building is a love letter to an era.





This mural has been on the southeastern corner of 4th and 6th Street for a long time. I think it depicts local characters from over the years. It's shown in two parts here, top picture the left side, bottom the right.



A medusa head stares from the wall of Medusa Kabob House (side comment: this place used to be a terrible restaurant called The Casbah, where the staff was stoned and the food was the worst kind of vegan).



This would make a great tattoo. It's on the upper wall on the south side of ZOE Boutique.



These patriotic images are on the side of Miller's Surplus, naturally.



This is on a wall on Stone Avenue, just before the downtown underpass.


Here's a woman worshipping produce on the side of The Tasteful Kitchen on Stone (I seem to have wandered away from 4th Avenue).



And finally, this stuff on the side of an art gallery on the northeast corner of Stone and Speedway.


Some of these are better than others, but isn't that true of everything? It makes for a better urban environment, as far as I'm concerned, and there's a bunch of it all over town. I'll post more as I collect more pictures.

A Short Meditation On Bike Theft In Tucson


What's missing?


Over seven years of living here, I've had one bike stolen and the wheels stolen off the bike that replaced the first one. I've had the battery-powered lights pulled off and shattered on the pavement. Someone tried to steal the seat by pulling the seat post out of the frame, but stopped midway through and decided not to go any further for some reason, maybe because they were afraid of being caught. On all of these occasions I had left my bike unattended while working a shift at my job. Tucson is many things, and one of those things is a nest of bicycle thieves.

A lot of people in the Tucson metro area ride bicycles. Many are students, some are enthusiasts, and others are too poor or too previously-incarcerated to own a car or a license. In my case, we don't own a car because we are a) too poor, b) too cheap, and c) too environmentally conscious (in a certain light you can actually see rainbow colors refracting through our halos). After a year of riding the bus and finding it to be a stressful and unreliable way of getting around, I switched to bicycles, and they've remained my chief mode of transportation around the city of Tucson. The bicycle I own is important to me, it gets me to places I don't just want to go but need to go, and without it I'd find life in the city much more challenging than it already is.

Which is why I've been in a foul mood for the last few days. On Sept.2, some asshole stole the seat off my mountain bike, including the seat post. The bike was locked to the metal rail right outside our apartment door, meaning the thief was passing by and happened to see a bike with a removable part he could run off with, or worse, is someone currently living in the same complex with us. It doesn't matter either way, I'm just as pissed that I have to replace the seat. On top of everything else we've been dealing with in the last month (trouble getting a land line installed in our studio apartment, an apparent bedbug infestation, difficulty finding jobs) this is the shit-flavored icing on a big crap cake. At least as far as the seat goes, there's a great used bicycle collective called BICAS that sells parts. I've purchased a new seat, but still need a seat post that fits my frame. Most of the stuff I need will cost less than ten bucks all together, much less than I would pay at most bike shops.

I hate to keep harping on the crime in Tucson, but there it is. I've just been the victim of a property crime. What I hate is that, for the person who stole the seat, that part means nothing more than a couple more bucks toward buying drugs. It's not like they're going to get a lot of money out of it. But for me, it's a part of my single best means of transportation, my wheels, something I use daily to live my life here. It was a petty crime, and I can easily replace the part, but it sucks to be a victim. And the incident serves as a reminder that to live in Tuscon, you have to tolerate chronic, consistent theft. That's just how it is here.


Thursday, August 29, 2013

Strange Tucson Art, Public and Private



You know what living in Tucson is like? It's like finding an old shoebox in the attic of an abandoned house. You open the box wondering what could be inside, and then: “Whoa...What are these, glass figurines of camels karate fighting? Dinosaurs made from the innards of old alarm clocks and cell phones? An exact replica of Christopher Lloyd's head? What the hell is this stuff?”

Tucson has weird or intriguing things hidden all over the place that you'd miss if you didn't take the time to look for them, meaning you're not looking for anything specific as far as you're concerned until the moment you see it, and then you think, “Ah, there it is.” It's an old shoebox of a town, seemingly plain and uninteresting at first glance—no glitzy skyline or anything like that—and then you open it up and see what's inside--a bunch of crazy stuff, objects that take you by surprise and make you consider whether you've ever encountered anything like them.

In 2009, my wife and I attended the All Souls Procession, an event that takes place every November in Tucson (and that I'll talk about in greater detail in a later post). At the end of the festivities, we wandered over to the Solar Culture Gallery on Toole Avenue. I think it was the first time we'd ever been inside. The space displays artwork on a rotating schedule from a number of Tucson artists, and regularly adds new work. As we moved through the building, we stepped into a side room just off the main space, and saw these:






The sculptures shown are the work of Steven Eye. What I like about them is that they have a stylistic connection to the work of H.R. Giger, with organic human shapes blended into seemingly mechanical, artificial structures. His work is less surreal or disturbing than Giger's, though, making it more accessible and in some ways more beautiful. The emphasis is on symmetry and perfection; aesthetically pleasing human faces serve as the focal point of head dresses, helmets, and body suits that simultaneously evoke ancient Egypt, Mayan and Aztec culture, and alien worlds. It's easy to picture these designs appearing in a science fiction film with a mystical slant, a new adaptation of the Dune novels or something in the same spirit.



Those photos don't even represent the majority of his work in the gallery. Much of the space itself is adorned with decorative sculptures and designs integrated as long-term installations. They're the natural result of a powerful imagination grounded in solid talent, and when I came across them it made me glad to know that objects so off-beat, admirable, and strange inhabit the same town I do.

Less bizarre but every bit as striking is Toby the Griffin on Scott Avenue. In the words of the website Creative Machines, “Griffins originally perched on the corners of the Carnegie Library overlooking Scott Avenue in Tucson. They were removed in the renovation of 1938 but one escaped. You can see his footprints where he jumped to the sidewalk and walked away.”



There are in fact footprints stamped into the sidewalk near the sculpture, adding to the coolness of the piece. It's the work of Joe O'Connell, and is just the kind of public art I like, fanciful and fun and done with a sense of whimsy. I'm glad the city agreed to it. It even has lights in its chest that come on at night. Every city should have one of these or something just as fantasy-related and inspired. Every city should have fifty.



Another thing every city should consider having is giant animals built into the infrastructure, animals that serve as walkways, tunnels, fountains, roads, whatever can be reasonably fit into the daily life without getting in the way. Tucson's done it with the Snake Bridge, a structure designed by Simon Donovan that spans Broadway Boulevard just east of downtown. It functions as part of a walking/bike path, and at the tail end there's a motion-sensitive speaker that plays a rattle for anyone exiting or entering on that side of the bridge. Just like the griffin, it's a whimsical and unusual thing to come across in a city, and I dig it. 



Oddly, some people have complained about it over the years, saying it makes the city look like a miniature golf course. I don't understand what they're talking about. Honestly, you'd rather live in a city with the same dull buildings and bridges you find everywhere else? I prefer a town that tries to set itself apart and adds something to the aesthetic experience of living there. It's fun, dammit, it's amusing, you can get boring architecture anywhere, so why have it here? This town probably needs a Snake Bridge, and a griffin, and trippy outer space Egyptians. That's why they're here and not in a different, less deserving city.

The fact that some people don't approve of a Snake Bridge might be a moot point now anyway, because the thing needs painting and repair that the city can't afford. The sad part is that such news can only mean Tucson will get less of this kind of thing, not more. I'd like to see them turn the whole place into a giant southwestern Dr. Seuss toy box, with insane statues and buildings and parks at every turn. It would mesh perfectly with the oddball character that makes Tucson so compelling, and likely spur an uptick in tourism. Cities like New Orleans and San Francisco became famous for their weirdness, so why not Tucson? Might as well capitalize on it.

Friday, August 23, 2013

Tucson Crime and General Weirdness



When I initially set out to write this blog, I considered for a while what the focus would be. I finally settled on the idea that it would encompass the full range of things I've encountered in close to five years living here, along with any new impressions I gather now that I've moved back after a year on the road. I want to be fair here, I don't want to emphasize only the negative aspects of the city, nor am I interested in painting an unrealistically sunny portrait. If you leave out certain obvious things about the city—the crime, the poverty, the homelessness—then you're not really writing about Tucson. In a perverse way, it's those aspects that give the place some of its character. If you took away the twitchy, sun-blasted seediness that underscores much of the metro area and the outlying ramshackle suburbs, you'd really lose something, even though I know that to maintain that quality means to preserve the chronic poverty and desperation confronting you nearly everywhere you go within Tucson. Possibly one becomes so complacent about crime, addiction and hopelessness that after a while you come to think of it as “local color”.

I was riding the number 9 bus from Grant and Campbell one afternoon years ago when I overheard a conversation between three people in the back. I was only a few seats away, making it hard for me not to pick up every word. Not one of these people, two men and one woman, seemed to know each other. Yet in the space of a few minutes they launched into a discussion of the pros and cons of various local jails they had spent time in. “I just got out of the new prison. It's better than the old one.” “Anything's better than the county jail. That place sucks.” “Oh yeah, I've been in there a few times. Most of the guards are dicks.”

As I sat listening I thought to myself, What are the odds? Here are three people who've never met, who just happen to run into each other on a city bus, and they all have recent experience with incarceration.

I suppose I shouldn't have been so surprised. Most people ride a city bus because they can't afford to drive, or have had trouble with the law that prevents them from holding a license. Statistically, it might be entirely probable that a small group of people riding the same bus have similar experiences with the courts. It got me thinking about the rate of crime in Tucson and how it compares to other cities in the U.S.



The numbers can seem either positive or negative, depending on how you look at them. The website Area Vibes writes that “[t]he Tucson crime index is 46% lower than the Arizona average and the Arizona crime index is 25% higher than the National average.” In other words, not as bad as the rest of the state on the average, but the state itself is about a quarter worse than the rest of the country. They go on to say that “[t]he Tucson violent crime rate is 53% higher than the Arizona average and the Arizona violent crime rate is 40% higher than the National average.” Pretty hard to put a good spin on that. Pheonix's violent crime rate is 29% higher than the Arizona average, according to the same site, and it's a bigger city.

Percentages aside, I tend to rely on personal anecdotal evidence when it comes to how I evaluate the level of crime in the city. I recognize that all cities have some crime, it's an inevitable part of living in a high concentration of human beings, but you can often get a sense of the criminal culture of a place after being there for just a short while, especially if you spend a lot of time on foot. San Francisco, in the supposedly mellow state of California, felt like a likely place to get into a violent confrontation with a stranger if you weren't careful where you stepped. Over the course of three days, I saw more people yelling, threatening, or snapping at passerby, whether on the street or on public transportation, than anywhere else I've been. Manhattan feels as safe as a theme park most of the time, but it's a de facto police state where you can't turn around without seeing NYPD, and though Spanish Harlem was a little shady—somebody set a car on fire for no discernible reason, and a guy offered us drugs out of nowhere—that was the worst we saw. Atlanta, GA, in my studied opinion, is kind of a shithole: I saw a guy get his cell phone stolen out of his hand on the street, which led to a block-long foot chase; and the area east of the Five Points neighborhood is to be avoided by tourists valuing their safety (the city has no moral qualms about sending tourists there to see the Martin Luther King Historical District, however, despite the obvious presence of drug dealers, infrastructural deterioration, and the strong possibility of being openly harassed, as we were).

One doesn't have to be in Tucson long to feel the persistent hum of a criminal culture inside the metro area. I'm not talking Chicago in the Roaring Twenties, more like a low-end commitment to petty larceny, drugs, and angry shouting. The first police helicopters I ever saw were here, coming out mostly at night, prowling the airspace with floodlights scanning the ground in a wide field of artificial daytime. When we lived in a tiny guest house off Alvernon Way seven years ago, we'd sometimes hear them circling the neighborhood in the middle of the night, flying so close to the ground it sounded like they were trying to land on the roof. One night as my wife walked home from work, a floodlight stopped on her for a moment before moving on, satisfied she wasn't the fugitive they were looking for. Down the road, at the intersection of Alvernon and Grant, the Circle K seemed to get robbed every other week, yellow tape circling the parking lot with two or more cop cars parked in front of the store.

                                                                                                        Google Images


I'll never forget the time I got panhandled by the same meth addict two days in a row, using the exact same elaborate story both times--stuck in town, friend was supposed to wire him money but never came through, collecting money for a bus ticket.  He seriously didn't remember me turning him down the day before, and that he'd told me the same thing.  Maybe it was presumptuous of me to think of him as a tweaker, but a mummy-like physique, bad teeth and worse complexion tend to be dead giveaways.  

I worked at a family-owned store in the same area next to a Fry's grocery store.  Over the course of a few years I saw a man tackled by two police officers right in front of the store's entrance, multiple people being nabbed by police in the parking lot for shoplifting, several loud arguments, a drunk homeless man with his pants around his ankles yelling at passerby (this also within a few feet of the store's entrance), I had one bicycle stolen and both wheels stolen off another, I almost had the seat stolen off the same bike (it looked like whoever had tried to take it gave up partway through), I caught a guy smoking meth or crack next to the dumpster when I was taking the garbage out at the end of the day, and one afternoon I watched as a man stood outside of a van and systematically, one at a time, shook soda cans, tossed them in a high arc, and let them hit the ground where they exploded in sunbursts of foam.  It was one of the most random things I've ever seen anyone do.  He did that for at least fifteen minutes straight and nobody even came over to see what he was doing or why.  Did he have more soda than he needed and decided that was the most entertaining way to get rid of it?  Was he testing out a new weapon?  Did he think he was at the county fair and might win a stuffed Spongebob?  I'm never going to know the answer to any of those questions--I'll just live the rest of my life with the image of soda foam splattering against blacktop, and consider that good enough.   

That was a pretty bad neighborhood, but our second apartment, a cheap but very livable one-bedroom in a complex with a decent pool, was nestled among quaint, attractive, slightly more upscale homes. Nevertheless, one night I heard two guys get into a fist fight in front of the complex, which seemed to consist of one guy getting punched and then bellowing “C'mon! Let's go! Let's go! You wanna do this? Let's go!” at his attacker for five minutes. I thought about calling the cops, but didn't want to get out of bed. Another night there were four pistol shots about a block away; that time I did call 911, and the woman on the other end had this tone in her voice that said “You're bothering me with this shit? Call me when you're dying.”

Weird things just kind of happened every so often. Sometime around two in the morning, we woke up to footsteps on the roof. Our apartment was on the second floor of a two-story building, and our bedroom was on the southeastern-most corner. Whoever had decided to climb up onto the roof in the dead of night (I'm just going to assume they were on the run from the cops, or bugfuck crazy) came up the opposite end, walked across the roof until they were right over our bedroom—over our bed, as a matter of fact—then climbed down to the street using the staggered brickwork on the corner of the building as hand-and-footholds. We weren't in any kind of danger, but still...weirdo on the roof at two in the morning.



And there was the crazy guy who came into the complex (in spite of the fact it was supposed to be locked to anyone except tenants) moaning “Help me! Help me!” over and over again. He looked healthy enough, dressed all in black, and was pretty young, not a day over twenty-five. He stopped at a door, leaned against it, then slid down to the ground. All the while he kept moaning “Help me!”. People peeked out their doors to see what was going on. Before long the apartment manager came out of his office to have a look. As soon as he came within a few feet of the young man, the man bolted up from the ground, staggered and spun around in confusion, and fled the complex. By now I could hear sirens closing in; I went out to the street to see what would happen next, and spotted the man booking from behind the building and down an alley, with a cop car following close behind. If he wasn't nuts, he must have been on some very interesting drugs. What else could make a guy go from a helpless, moaning heap to sprinting like an Olympian in the space of a couple of minutes?

In spite of all that, Tucson doesn't come across like a dangerous town. It's very seldom that I don't feel more or less safe here. There are lots of crazy people, but their madness seems to be focused mostly on themselves. If there are dangerous gangs, they must stick to their own neighborhoods, because I've never seen them. What you encounter most often is a pronounced eccentricity, a skewed approach to existence that the broad open skies and dry desert terrain seem to encourage. It can be a beautiful thing, really—I've never been anywhere that has such a unique collection of kooks, visionaries, artists, musicians, and freaks. Much more than any of its shadier elements, it's the remarkable creativity of many of Tucson's residents that I find most memorable every time we're away, and it's what I most often mention to people whenever they ask me about where I live.

As I've said before, it isn't my goal to make Tucson look bad, overrun with crime, inept, or a city to stay away from. I think more people ought to come here and check it out. It makes an intriguing tourist destination, a place of mesmerizing sunsets, great art and music, charming southwestern architecture, and one of the world's most verdant deserts. Owing to my personality, there are times when, in the act of describing the life I've had here, I focus too much on the negative out of morbid obsession and a love for the sensational. I apologize to any long-time residents who read this and think, “Jesus, why doesn't this guy just move, then?” Cities are like people, they have good and bad qualities, and as with any human relationship, you have to acknowledge all of a city's faults and highlights if you really ever hope to know it.

And in that same spirit of good will, look for these upcoming topics:

The All Souls Procession

The Loft Theatre

The Santa Cruz River Trail